7 to 8 Days Mount Kenya Rock climbing via the North Face Standard Route/climbing gears/best months/weather conditions.
Technical climbing,rock climbing,ice climbing,africa climbing,mountkenya climbing,climbing the diamond couler,equator mountains,north face route,climbing from the base,gate of mist,technical climbing base.
Mountkenya peak tours arranges mountain climbs to guests who want to conqure the highest peak in africa(technically)and the 2nd highest mountain in africa.we have very experienced guides,who are trained to under go such hikes.they have olso being trained for rescue purposes incase of any emergencies.
The easiest routes to the highest peaks, Batian and Nelion, are IV (UIAA grading). Few parties reach Batian summit and descend before nightfall. There are more than 25 routes to the main summits of which 8 are ice routes concentrated on the south and west sides. There is little scope for new routes. 90% of visiting climbers underestimate Mt. Kenya and it is unlikely that more than one route to the summits will be made in any one visit to the mountain. There are good shorter climbs on outlying smaller peaks.
Climbers particularly should take special note of changes to climbing routes due to the shrinking glacier cover. Some climbs have seriously changed
Climbing seasons
Although Mt. Kenya is situated on the equator it has very definite summer and winter conditions on its north and south faces. The two rainy seasons (around mid March to June and October to December) can make the approach difficult and the rock routes wet or verglassed. Attention should therefore be paid to choosing the correct time to climb the mountain. Rock routes on the south side are usually in condition from end of December to mid March and on the north side from late June to mid-October. Ice routes are normally in condition during the same periods given above but on the opposite face of the mountain. East facing rock routes tend to be free of ice during both dry periods.
climbing mountkenya technical part is serious and it is important to acclimatize well before tackling the main summit.mountkenya has active glaciers but due to the global warming,the glaciers are melting and evaporating.types of glaciers,darwin glacier,gregory glacier,
7 Day Mount Kenya Rock climbing via the North Face Standard Route.
Day 1: Nairobi- Mount Kenya chogoria bandas (2,900m)
Early morning after breakfast depart from Nairobi to mountkenya region at 0700hrs, driving through agricultural country up to Chogoria town for lunch. After lunch,drive up to the edge of the bamboo forest,to mountkenya bandas(similary you may decide to have a 8km walk on that day if time allows.dinner and overnight at mountkenya campsite.
Day 2: Mount Kenya Bandas campsite – Lake Ellis Campsite ( 3,600m) .
After breakfast and sorting of porter loads we set off up the mountain at a nice and easy pace with very beautiful and breath taking fresh air via Lake Ellis this gives scenic views of Mugi, Ithanguni and the Giants Billiards Table, whilst if we follow the river near road head, upstream for about 3 km, the foreground scenery and flora is particularly beautiful.
Lunch on the banks of a stream, then it`s time to cut up the left hand hillside to our camp at about 3,600m, well away from any of the more touristy areas.
Day 3: Lake Ellis- Minto`s Camp. ( 4,200m) .
Similar early start. Again well off the beaten track to follow a ridge up the mountain for about 3 hours to eventually join the tourist track on the normal Chogoria route at an altitude of about 4,100m. Breath taking views over the Gorges Valley and back over towards Ithanguni and the Northern Moorland
Lunch is served at a small stream crossing, before continuing for a further hour to the Mintos Hut area at 4200m and our night rest.Afternoon is spent relaxing at camp, though a 10 minute walk to the Temple is well worth the effort. This is a 150 meters vertical cliff that gets its name from the position visitors often adopt when peering over the edge they look as if they are praying.
Day 4: Minto`s -Shipton Camp (4,200m)
You rise early and continue your trek up to Top Hut (Austrian Hut) 4800m. From this Hut you make a final short ascent of Point Lenana, 4985m,. Point Lenana is the common trekkers Mount Kenya Summit. From this summit you then go straight down the Northwest side to Shipton`s Camp, passing Harris Tarn.
Day 5: Shipton – Batian (5199m) – Shipton (Climbing Day)
Ascent of Batian by the North Face Standard Route. Starting in the early morning dark, usually between 4 and 5 am, you may climb the first couple of pitches by headlamp.
The route initially follows a wide couloir which you ascend for some 7 pitches, never harder than 5.7. A bit of easy scrambling brings us to the Amphitheater, a small basin of easy rock part way up the route. Ideally we arrive here by about 7:30 or so, enjoying a short break. Above this is the crux of the route, Firmin’s Tower. There are about 3 difficult pitches, all fairly short, but all in the V grade. Above this, easier terrain leads to a few more pitches and, finally, the west ridge. From this point, we continue on easy, but still exposed, rock to Shipton’s Notch, a prominent gash in the summit ridge. Another pitch, then mixed 4th and easy 5th class rock leads to the airy summit of Batian.for more detailed information at:
https://www.summitpost.org/nelion-descent/160054You’ll then descend via the same route hopefully hitting Shipton’s Camp before evening dusk for dinner and overnight.
Day 6: Shipton camp- Old Moses Camp (3,300m)
After breakfast descend to Shiptons camp via Simba col after which you begin a 5 hour descent via Mackinder`s valley to the Old Moses camp. The descent is gentle and it offers ample time to enjoy fascinating scenery which includes the moorlands before reaching the camp.
Dinner and overnight at the Old Moses camp
Day 7: Old Moses – Nairobi.
After early morning breakfast, descend for 3 hours to the Sirimon Park gate to catch a vehicle and transfer back to Nairobi arriving by 16:00 Hrs.
special climbing equipments are required in this climb e.g Climbing Shoes, Ropes 2 locking Carabiners ,climbing helmet,crampons,bellay or rappel device
NB:some of the climbing gears we have in our stores for lending
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- Transports,
- Guiding
- Porters
- Cook
- Food in the mountai
- Entry fees.
- Accommodation in our tents(mountain tents
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The easiest routes to the highest peaks, Batian and Nelion, are IV (UIAA grading). Few parties reach Batian summit and descend before nightfall. There are more than 25 routes to the main summits of which 8 are ice routes concentrated on the south and west sides. There is little scope for new routes. 90% of visiting climbers underestimate Mt. Kenya and it is unlikely that more than one route to the summits will be made in any one visit to the mountain. There are good shorter climbs on outlying smaller peaks.
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